We recommend using a bolt (do not use screws). so the connection is as strong as possible. Make sure to clean the surface well, sand down the surface removing any paint, dirt, rust, etc. We recommending grounding to the frame of your car. Make sure to properly ground your amplifier. The amplifier will perform less than optimal if you decide to use CCA wiring and may even shorten the life of the amplifier.Ģ. CCA wiring is cheap, it is made using primarily aluminum. Make sure to use the correct gauge wiring, for the CT-2000.1D we suggest using 0GA power wire, anything smaller is not recommended for this amplifier. Thermal and Speaker Short Protection Circuit.MOSFET Pulse Width Modulated Power Supply.Continuously-Variable Input Gain Control.RMS Power at 4 Ohm: 650 Watts x 1-Ch (14.4v).RMS Power at 2 Ohm: 1200 Watts x 1-Ch (14.4v).RMS Power at 1 Ohm: 2000 Watts x 1-Ch (14.4v).Strappable: Yes Signal Output is Master.You can sleep easy at night knowing your subwoofer amplifier is protected from damage due to the amplifier's uniquely engineered protection circuitry featuring high voltage, low voltage, over current, and high-temperature protection. Furthermore, the compact chassis and small footprint make it easy to install in any car audio application. The MOSFET power supply and proprietary heat dissipation design will ensure that the amplifier runs cool for even the most demanding playlists. This 1-ohm stable monoblock amplifier features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), Subsonic Filter, and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier. If you want a 2000 watt amplifier that absolutely pounds and delivers clean power to your subwoofers then look no further. Once again, don’t connect the last subwoofer in the series backto the amp, because the 1st sub already connects to the amp to complete thecircuit.About: CT Sounds CT-2000.1D // 2000 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Audio AmplifierĬT Sounds engineered the CT-2000.1D Compact Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier for anyone in need of a powerhouse amplifier that fits just about anywhere in your vehicle and won’t destroy your wallet. Now, run a wire from the -terminal on the amplifier to the empty - terminal on the first sub.Connect the - on the 1st sub (the one that’s connected to the amp, notthe one that’s bridged) to the empty - terminal on the 2nd subwoofer.Connect the same - on the 2nd subwoofer to the empty - on thethird subwoofer, and do the same to connect the - on the 3rd sub to the -on the 4th sub. Do not connect the4th sub back to the amplifier, the first sub is already connected to the amp. Next, connect the same + wire from the second sub to the empty + terminal on the 3rd sub, and then connect the + on the 3rd sub to the + on the 4th sub. Next, you’ll connect the +from the amp to the empty + on the first subwoofer (not the + that is already bridged with the - on the same sub.) Run another wire from the +on the first sub (the one that’s also connected to the amp) and connect that to the empty + on the second sub. This leaves both posts empty on the amp still, and each sub with one empty + post and one empty - post. Your amp has a + and a -, and each sub has two +’s and two -’s.Įach of the subs should have a bridge wire to connect one of the +’s with one of the -’s on the same sub. If you have four subs, each one with dual voice coils at 2 ohms, and a mono amp under a 1-ohm load, here’s an explanation of how to wire that… If you have two2-ohm subwoofers, you would divide 2 by 2 and get an impedance of 1 ohm. The formula for calculating the impedance in parallel wiring is to add together the total ohms from each subwoofer, and then divide them by the number of subwoofers. Unlike in series, where positives connect to negatives.
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